The routes are nice and very well bolted, although the rock is a bit abrasive. The list of routes can be found in the V3. Also, there are multiple online topos.
Cathy essence de myosotis, 5+ (on-sight)
Des pensées pour Didier, 6a+ (on-sight)
Jo la basse, 6b+ (flash, many thanks to Alix)
Mélanie éclat de martagon, 6b (redpoint, thanks to Adri :-P)
Des pensées pour Didier, 6a+ (on-sight)
Jo la basse, 6b+ (flash, many thanks to Alix)
Mélanie éclat de martagon, 6b (redpoint, thanks to Adri :-P)
I couldn't send Mélanie éclat de martagon in my first attempt. There are two bellies that are not very intuitive, and I failed to pass the first one straight away. I finished the route and I left the quickdraws there, for the guys to try.
Then, Alix arrived and we tried Jo la basse. This 6b+ has a crazy overhanging part, half way to the top. It looks quite scary, but in the end it only takes a couple of long, boulder-style moves to get through it. After watching Alix on-sighting it, I got inspired and I decided to give it a try. I felt quite comfortable and light, and I managed to flash it :-D
After that, Adri tried the 6b that I equipped, but 3 meters away from the chain he got really pumped, and he could not make it to the top. I was about to go and get my quickdraws back, when I remembered Alex's advice, saying that I should stop climbing in top-rope, and it worked quite well :-) I took the rope down and started from scratch. Result: redpoint, yaaay!
And to complete the day, nothing like a very well deserved dinner at Les Santons, a restaurant that I truly recommend, not far from the crag. Filet de boeuf rossini: fresh, high quality meat, with a thick layer of
One of my best performances so far. Yiheeee!
Rossini beef?! It's not Paté on top, it's foie gras :-D that would explain the 32Euros !! Well done for the redpoint. Forget about top-roping for good haha!!
ReplyDeleteFoie gras, huh? I had to google it cause I didn't know there was a difference :-P
ReplyDeleteThanks for the advice!
yep i'm pretty sure we've been there together some time ago ... I even remember devouring pizza at Les Santons after the climbs :) anyway, congrats for the 6b's. 7a is just around the corner now :DDD
ReplyDeleteHmmm perhaps you're right. I think the day of the pizzas we were on our way back from Italy.
ReplyDeleteNevertheless, I remember being with you somewhere in La Turbie, and Claude (or was it Roman?) passing by the crag, saying he'd lost (or got stolen) one of his climbing shoes. The only reasonable option is that he was coming back from Big Ben, so it would make sense...
How's your trip going? Still visiting / climbing in amazing places? Take care!
maybe, i don't know ...
ReplyDeletewe are now in SF now chez Frasco, and with a whole set of brand new gear waiting to be used in Thailand in a couple weeks! we are actually thinking about staying there for a while, you should come over!