Sunday, July 31, 2011

Rewind: Chateauvert, August 2009

The idea was to spend the weekend in Marseille, doing some multi-pitch climbing in Les Calanques. We camped on Friday, and after a very cozy dinner by the camping gaz (with some wine ;) we went straight to bed.

We woke up very early in the morning, unmounted the tents in the dark, and quickly drove to our destination crag. What? Before sunrise? what's wrong with you guys? It had to be that way, because the authorities close the road in the morning (6am if I recall well), to avoid tourists and protect the region (or so they say).

We were complete zombies, yet we realised it was not going to be a good day. The wind started blowing very strongly, and the radio gave us the worst piece of news: the authorities had forbidden climbing for the whole weekend. We looked at each other and thought.. screw them, we're already here!

But then, after the mandatory dose of coffee, we assessed the situation again, and we decided it was not worth it. Not only for the potential fine, which were ready to pay, but also for the real danger and chances of falling. They were right, that wind was indeed very bitchy. So there we were, Iñaki, Christiane and myself, sitting by the beach, having breakfast as the sun rose. That was it, a weekend completely wasted, the whole trip for nothing.

After the initial disappointment and already on our way back, we decided to stop in Chateauvert. Even though it wasn't multi-pitch, we would at least climb a bit. As it turned out, our alternative plan ended up being an amazing climbing session! We really made the most of our day :-)


If you guys are closeby, Chateauvert is a must. There is a nice cheap camping area in Correns, not far from the rocks. On the other side of the crag, in the middle of the fields, an Australian couple, very nice people, have a pizza van / restaurant. I don't know whether it is the post-climbing effect, but the pizzas tasted delicious to me. The rock is unique, some routes have holes that remind me of those of Swiss cheese, and there are challenges for all levels. If it gets too hot, there's a river by the crag, so you can always go for a quick refreshing swim.

Looking forward to going to Chateauvert again!

3 comments:

  1. Yep, we definitely have to go!

    I read somewhere that they are changing their policies and restricting a bit the access to preserve the place, we should find more information.

    ReplyDelete